A small whine in Shiraz
Location: Aryo Barzan Hotel, Shiraz, Iran
Date: 4th May, 2008
We started the day with a stroll around the Shiraz Botanical Garden, hugely busy with locals, as friendly as ever, and impressive for its collection of Roses.
Back in the city center, we parked and walked past the Arg-e Karim Khani (Citadel of Karim Khan), complete with its own leaning tower (apparently the sewers couldn’t cope with the volume when the purpose of part of the citadel became a prison and leached out, softening the foundations), en-route to the Bazaar.
The Bazar-e Vakil is a classic Persian Bazar. Kristy was shopping again, but bazaars are always interesting places to wander around in. I’m always on the lookout for a good astrolabe, and I saw a couple here but they were not in great condition.
In the bazaar I was introduced to a new treat! If you ever get the chance, try faloudeh, it’s made from little bits of wheat like mini-spaghetti and frozen rosewater. I added ice cream which made it even better! Shiraz is apparently famous for this – highly recommended!
Right next to the bazaar is the Masjed-e Vakil, or Regents Mosque. It was a pretty enough building, and remarkably empty but I must confess to be getting a bit mosque-ed out at the moment…
After a few hours back at the hotel, we ventured out to see another mosque (yayyy!), the Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque. Actually, despite not feeling up to seeing another mosque, I’m glad I saw this one. It’s built on a far more intimate and human scale than many of the others we’ve seen, and the craftsmanship is exceptional.
After visiting the extremely popular tombs of the poets Sa’di and Hafez, we had dinner and retired for the day.
Finally, I have to say I can’t recommend this hotel. Amongst other things, they switched the A/C chillers off overnight leaving us waking up in a sweat in a 90F room. And they promised that they wouldn’t do that…
Persepolis, I Presume?
Location: Aryo Barzan Hotel, Shiraz, Iran
Date: 3rd May, 2008
Today was a day that belonged to the long-dead Achaemenid Kings. After stopping in Aberkouh to see something that pre-dates Cyrus the Great, a 4000 year old Cypress tree, we made our way to Pasargadae.
Pasargadae is mostly in ruins now and sees far fewer visitors than the later, and better preserved Persepolis. However, Cyrus left his mark here and it was great to see both the remains of his quite modest private palace. His tomb is also in great shape, thanks to Alexander leaving it well alone – the story goes that Cyrus had carved inside “I know one day you will come, begrudge me not this small amount of land on which I lie”. I’ll have to remember that one.
Next up, Naqsh-e Rostam, and the tombs of 4 Achaemenid Kings, including Darius the Great and his son, Xerxes.
Finally onto the highlight of the day, Persepolis. Wonderfully preserved and looking wonderful after almost 2500 years in the evening light, the city which is believed to have been used only once a year for the Spring festival is worth a visit. We even saw Stanleys signature (no Livingstone though) – carved into one of the great pillars on the main gate, bloody vandal!
